The morning rain seemed like a good
excuse for a short cruise, so we made our way eastward from Port Hardy along
Queen Charlotte Strait to the community of Sointula on Malcolm Island.
Sointula was settled by Finnish immigrants,
evident by the colorful homes, flower gardens, and unique wood fences and old
barns in the area. Everyone seems to be
on island time, no one’s in a hurry and people wave as they pass by; you might
even see chickens crossing the road.
Most of the activity takes place at the docks, the marine ways, and in
the village at the Co-op Grocery Store and town cafes.
While checking in at the Harbour Office for
our stay at the Malcolm Island docks, we made special note of the new office,
clean showers, and nice laundry facilities, and of course the lovely flower
beds. Located next to the office is the
cute red ‘Burger Barn,’ open noon to 7pm, which seems quite popular. A stop at Sointula, however, isn’t complete
without a ride into town; if you don’t have bicycles aboard your boat, the
Harbour Office has loaner bicycles for guests.
Learning about the history of Sointula made our visit all that more
interesting. Finnish immigrants who were
tired of working the coal mines in the Nanaimo area, organized the Kalevan
Kansa Colonization Company and the AIKA Newspaper.
The immigrants, under the leadership of Matti
Kurikka, negotiated with the B.C. government for land, and in 1901 the Company took
possession of Malcolm Island (28,000 acres).
The name Sointula, meaning place of harmony, was chosen to match the
life style of communal ownership, equal rights, and decision making by
consensus.
This idealistic utopia didn’t
last; and by late 1904, much of the colony deteriorated and the founder left, along
with half the colony. The remaining
pioneers, under the direction of Austin Makela, tried to make the best of it but
were saddled with debt. As a
consequence, the Colonization Company sold the assets to the bank and returned
the Island to the Government of British Columbia.
The pioneers who stayed were allowed to keep
their homes and continue their efforts to create new businesses including the
1909 Co-operative Grocery Store. The
Co-op Grocery Store is still in business today and is the oldest running
cooperative in British Columbia. After
shopping at this historic grocery store, we road our bikes back towards the
docks, stopping at the Tarkanen Marine Ways to check out their new
buildings. A fire in 2016 destroyed the
workshop and sheds which were quickly rebuilt and then re-opened for business
this spring.
Tarkanen has three marine
ways with varying size cradles which can accommodate power vessels up to 60
feet and accommodate some sailboats.
Tarkanen (250-973-6710) is the only marine ways between Campbell River or Lund, and
shearwater. Services at Tarkanen include
welding, fiberglass repairs, and bottom painting for both commercial and
pleasure boats. Folks at Tarkanen are
friendly and were hard at work, perhaps inherited from the Finnish can do
attitude.
After depositing our groceries
at the boat, we biked west of town and enjoyed more peaceful residential
streets and country-style houses along the seashore; the sea breeze and warm
afternoon sun melted away the concerns of the world for Sointula, ‘the place of
harmony.’
The Peaceful Town of Sointula |
Colorful homes and flower gardens at Sointula |
Chickens crossing the road in Sointula |
Malcolm Island Docks and Harbour Office |
Archive Photo, Sointula |
Yesteryear buildings at Sointula |
The Sointula Co-op Grocery Store, established 1909 |
Tarkanen Marine Ways and Work Sheds |
Exploring the Streets of Sointula |
Malcolm Island Lions Harbour Authority Docks |
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