Native Culture, the Modern Way

The winds were howling around Cape Caution during our stay at Duncanby in Rivers Inlet.  Gale force winds were so strong that they reached into Rivers Inlet where we clocked 50-knot winds; the wind blew water from the surface of the waves, sending spray sideways like rain clouds.  The weather synopsis indicated that winds and seas would subside over Friday but more gale force winds would be arriving Saturday afternoon.  

A Fishing Boat Rounding Cape Caution

We chose to depart Duncanby on Friday around 9am.  The seas had not completely subsided and we were on an ebb tide exiting Rivers Inlet; sea swell was 6-7 feet but with a period of 12 seconds so conditions were manageable.  As we continued out to sea and around Cape Caution, the seas subsided to 5-foot swells between 8 and 9 second intervals.  By the time we reached Queen Charlotte Strait, the seas had eased to a 4-foot swell.  

Scarlett Point Lighthouse on Balaklava Island

Entering Gordon Channel, we were once again in protected waters and passed the attractive Scarlett Point Lighthouse before entering Christie Passage and Goletas Channel.  Located in Christie Passage is a cute little cove called God’s Pocket, the site of God’s Pocket Resort, an established diving resort with space for three or four boats.  

God's Pocket Resort

Visiting boaters can call ahead regarding available moorage space and join guests for breakfast, lunch, or dinner as space allows with prior notice.  Anchorage is possible near the entrance to the resort.  After a short stop at God’s Pocket Resort, we continued south from Goletas Channel into Hardy Bay, arriving at Port Hardy around 4:30pm with three different options for moorage:  the downtown Harbour Authority Seagate T-Floats, best utilized in settled weather; the Harbour Authority Fisherman’s Wharf, primarily used by the fishing fleet; and the Quarterdeck Inn & Marina Resort docks who also welcome visiting boaters.  

Downtown Port Hardy and the Seagate T-Floats

Quarterdeck Inn and Marina, Port Hardy

Downtown Port Hardy has a lovely promenade along the waterfront and several nice cafes and coffee shops.  A recent new addition to Port Hardy is the beautiful Kwa’Lilas Hotel, formerly the Port Hardy Inn.  Three First Nations tribes:  the Nakwaxda’xw People, the Gwa’sala People, and the Kwakiutle People came together to completely rebuild the structure, making extensive use of local cedar.  The Kwa’Lilas Hotel houses the fine-dining Ha’me’ Restaurant offering a quality menu.  

Native owned Kwa'Lilas Hotel

We enjoyed a wonderful strawberry, beet salad and a beautifully prepared halibut dish along with a seafood pasta dish, all with nice presentation, served by gracious staff.  A Native motif of wood carved masks, headdresses, and Native blankets are used throughout the building in both the lovely hotel rooms and in the restaurant.  

The Ha'me' Restaurant at Kwa'Lilas Hotel

The Ha’me’ Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, for reservations call (250) 949-8884.  The K’awat’si Economic Development Corporation (KEDC) was formed in 2014 to create future opportunities for the tribes.  

Quality Meals at Ha'me' Restaurant, a unique dining experience

The Nakwaxda’xw People who once lived in Blunden Harbour, and the Gwa’sala People who once lived in Smith Inlet were moved by the Canadian Government in 1964 from their traditional land to the current location in Tsulquate-Port Hardy, home of the Kwakiutle People.  

Native motif found throughout Kwa'Lilas Hotel

The three tribes formed the KED Corporation and purchased the former Port Hardy Inn to create the new Kwa’Lilas Hotel which recently opened in March of 2017.  The hotel and restaurant are a welcome addition for the town of Port Hardy.