A Wilderness Beauty



Toba Wilderness Marina

 



Docks at Toba Wilderness Marina

Departing Big Bay at 9:30 in the morning, we transited Yuculta Rapids at slack and entered Calm Channel.  Our destination, Toba Wilderness Marina, took us through Raza Passage and Pryce Channel.  Toba Wilderness Marina, located at the entrance to Toba Inlet, is an incredible wilderness destination with some of the most striking scenery in British Columbia.  

Inviting 'Welcome House' at Toba Wilderness Marina

Views from the marina are inspiring and you can relax under the shade of a newly constructed open-air ‘Welcome House’ with comfortable patio furnishings.  The ‘Welcome House,’ a large post and beam gazebo, serves as a venue to meet and greet other boaters or enjoy a picnic lunch. 


Comfortable furnishings in the 'Welcome House'

We had a wonderful time with a couple at the gazebo-style 'Welcome House' getting to know each other over dinner.  As it turned out, they are friends with someone we also know, confirming that it’s a small world in the boating community.  During our stay, we hiked a newly formed trail to the nearby waterfall, the source of abundant clear water for the marina.  The new trail is a short half-mile but is a rather steep climb.  

Rope assist to the Falls (dog Java gets some help too)

Ropes for an assist up the last few feet adds a bit of excitement just before reaching the impressive falls.  Good hiking shoes help and don’t forget the bug spray.  

Impressive Falls above Toba Wilderness Marina

You can fill your water bottle from the gravity-fed water system near the top of the trail.  Equally steep trails on the east side of the marina lead to a couple of vista viewpoints.  A day-trip with the boat into fjord-like Toba Inlet is another worth while trip to witness the 8,000-foot  towering peaks that seem to erupt from the sea bottom.  

Wonderful views from Toba Wilderness Marina

Boaters are discovering this ideal setting at Toba Wilderness Marina and have added it to their list of favorite destinations.

Elegant vs Casual



Big Bay Scenery

 

This morning we departed Denham Bay and transited Dent Rapids at slack.  The weather was clear for picture taking so we made a couple of stops in Big Bay just south of Dent Rapids.  Stops included the public Stuart Island Community Dock, and the high-end Dent Island Lodge.  While the Community Dock is attractive and homey, Dent Island Lodge is elegant and intimate.  Both places are enjoyable and we found happy boaters at both locations.  

Stuart Island Community Docks

The Community Dock has a lovely outdoor covered seating area and a small store with snack items and gifts.  The large lawn overlooking the docks and views of Big Bay is like being at home on your front porch.  Boaters often overnight here to time their transit through Dent Rapids and Yuculta Rapids while enjoying the company of other boaters.  

Stuart Island Community Dock Store and Patio

Docking can sometimes be a challenge at the Stuart Island Community Dock when the current is running.  As we approached the docks, it was clear we were being swept sideways away from our finger pier.  Other boaters on the docks came over to help with our lines and commented that they too had been swept sideways.  A good reminder that if you are entering or leaving Big Bay docks in anything other than slack water, be cautions off the end of piers and inside slips and fairways.  After a quick bite to eat, we headed out with the dinghy to visit Dent Island Lodge for picture taking.  This meant negotiating strong tidal currents with upwells and whirlpools through Barber Passage before reaching Dent Island.  

Taking the Dinghy through Barber Passage Rapids

It was an e-ticket ride in the dinghy, zipping through the boiling rapids just like the jet boat tour operators.  

Dent Island Lodge

Docks at Dent Island Lodge

We arrived at Dent Island Lodge and were warmly greeted at the dock, where they were expecting our arrival.  We noted that the yacht, Sans Souci, belonging to Ken Williams, was at the docks.  He and his wife invented/created the early version of electronic gaming, and more recently authored “The Great Siberian Sushi Run” in which they share their experience of crossing the Gulf of Alaska, cruising the Aleutian Chain, and down to Japan.  Yes, Dent Island Lodge is a luxury resort with moorage and dinner prices to match, but you will find all size boats here who want to treat themselves to a special experience or celebrate on a special occasion.  

Dent Island guest viewing Canoe Rapids

Located on a tiny treed island, Dent Island Lodge has everything you would expect in a high-end retreat - guided jet boat excursions, an exercise room, hot tub, and dining areas both indoor and outdoor serving quality meals.  

Lovely outdoor bar at Dent Island Lodge

The beautiful outdoor bar with dinner service overlooks Canoe Pass, where tidal currents churn along the west side of the island past rocks and trees.  The cedar, lodge-style buildings in addition to bridges and pathways, create a cozy retreat feel.  We enjoyed our visit to this special place, took photos, and met some interesting folks as we departed by dinghy back to the mother-ship.  One of the many pleasures of boating is the variety of public docks, marinas and resorts, each offering their own unique setting and character; we recommend taking several seasons to experience them all.

A Walk in the Park



Denham Bay Resort

 

After our stop and exploration of Yorke Island, we exited Johnstone Strait and entered Blind Channel and continued into Cordero Channel for a stop at Denham Bay to spend the night.  

Docks at Denham Bay

We were happy to see that Denham Bay had completed the installation of their new dock, which has added additional moorage space to this small, intimate marina.  We met the owners, Peter and Sarah, who graciously showed us around the lovely park-like grounds and the adorable cabins that are nicely appointed.  

Outdoor Kitchen for Cabin Guests

A beautiful outdoor kitchen area with granite countertops is for cabin guests, and boaters moored at the marina have use of a separate shore-side kitchen area along with a wood-fired pizza oven.  

Lovely Boardwalk at Denham Bay (breakwater on right)

Peter and Sarah have done an excellent job creating a welcoming appeal with the use of potted flowers, nice walkways, outdoor seating areas, and a lovely boardwalk they constructed along the shoreline.  It’s like going for a walk in your own private park.  

Denham Bay is a nice place to relax

There are also hiking trails, one of which goes to the top of the mountain with expansive views.  Denham Bay mainly caters to small groups looking for a cozy, attractive place to rendezvous.  Groups of 8-10 boats can book the entire facility (cabins and marina) for their own private event.  While popular among smaller size boats, vessels up to 60 feet can moor at Denham Bay as space allows.  Located on the northwest side of Dent Rapids, Denham Bay is also a convenient and scenic overnight stop before transiting the rapids the following morning or afternoon.  The line of boats passing by after transiting the rapids is a sight to behold.  Wakes from passing boats occasionally find their way into the marina, but the log breakwater helps cut down on some of the wave action.  

Tug and Sport Boat adding a new log to the Breakwater

While we were at Denham Bay, a small tug arrived and pulled a designated log from shore to be added to the breakwater; it was quite a show.  

Peter performing his 'tight-walk' act

The tug along with a local boat helped pull the log into place, and Peter performed a ‘tight-walk’ act on top of the log (log rolling?) before strapping it down.  With the task successfully completed and the excitement over, it was back to leisure time at Denham Bay.

WWII Ruins on Yorke Island



Reef just off Yorke Island

Departing Lagoon Cove we motored through ‘The Blow Hole’ between E. Cracroft and Minstrel Islands into Chatham and Havannah Channels reaching Johnstone Strait.  Not surprising, Johnstone Strait was choppy but improved as we proceeded eastward.  Seeing that the seas had become settled, we took the opportunity to anchor for a few hours behind Yorke Island.  

WWII Powerhouse on Yorke Island in Johnstone Strait

For sometime we have wanted to see the gun emplacements established on the island during WWII and this was our chance.  

Inside the Powerhouse

Ruins from the period remain on the island and trails are maintained by the BC Parks to the various military sites.  

Barbed-wire to prevent enemy attack is still found on the Island

You might even find barbed-wire along the shoreline, which circled the island to deter enemy attack.  The Parliament of Canada approved construction for the fort at Yorke Island in 1937 to block any enemy approach from the Strait of Georgia and to defend the cities of Vancouver and Victoria.  

Searchlight Emplacement

Supplies for the fort were brought in by the Union Steamship Company and by the Royal Canadian Navy.  At the peak of construction 250-500 soldiers and workers were stationed here.  Some of the construction workers were recruited from local communities.  

Path to Main Gun Emplacement

In 1942, the original fortress’ 4-7 inch guns were exchanged with Ferguson Point Battery in Stanley Park, Vancouver for their more modern 6-inch MK VII guns.  For those interested in WWII history, Yorke Island is a fascinating island to visit.  

Main Gun Emplacement at the top of Yorke Island

Unfortunately, there is no licensed tour operator for this site, but trail maps can be found online.  While the trails are well-marked with colored ribbons, anchorage can be a challenge.  Anchorage is possible in settled weather behind a reef on the southeast side of the island where the beach landing and trailhead is located.  

Temporary Anchorage at Yorke Island

Since this is temporary anchorage at best with a rocky bottom, it is wise to leave someone on the boat as an anchor watch and take turns going ashore.  Managing a kayak on shore seemed a simpler solution than going in by dinghy, and we carried cell phones and a hand-held VHF Radio for communication.  

Munitions Storage at Main Gun Emplacement

Be sure to allow enough time to hike the trails and see all the magazine buildings and gun sites positioned in various locations on the island.  We enjoyed the stop and look forward to visiting again whenever the weather is settled.

Crew Shelter at the Main Gun Emplacement

Broughton Treasures




Beautiful but challenging Beware Passage

Continuing our journey southward, we entered Beware Passage which is strewn with rocks and requires special attention to negotiate the appropriate course and ninety degree turns.  

Scenic Beware Passage

There are two safe routes, the more direct but narrow route along Towboat Pass off Harbledown Island, or you can take the east route along Care Island navigating between charted rocks.  The scenery is lovely but you will need to keep a watchful eye on the charts and waypoints in front of you.  Tucked along the passage is the abandoned ruins of Karlukwees village.  

Abandoned Karlukwees Village

Just south of the old village are several interesting pictographs; you can motor up close, with an eye on the depth sounder, to get a good look.  

Pictograph near Karlukwees abandoned village

Taken together, they seem to be telling a story – several sailing vessels and what looks like a horse-drawn cart; could it be directions showing the way through Beware Passage by land and sea?  

Sailing Ship Pictograph somewhat hidden by the grass

A Horse-drawn Wagon?

After exiting Beware Passage, we crossed Clio Channel and entered Potts Lagoon on W. Cracroft Island to peek around.  The outer bay is mostly filled with a log booming operation but the two inner bays are open and provide good anchorage and protection from all winds.  

Interesting and well-protected Potts Lagoon Inner Bay

The inner bay off to the right past the loggers blue float house is the more spacious.  Ruins from an old pier along with a few float-homes, add to the character of this hidden anchorage.  A smaller but more private cove is found to port, turn left just past the loggers’ blue float house.  Departing Potts Lagoon, we continued northeast along Clio Channel, arriving at Lagoon Cove Marina on E. Cracroft Island, another favorite destination in The Broughtons.  

Guest Docks at Beautiful Lagoon Cove Marina

Jim and Lou, new owners of the marina, have brought their talents and energy to this much beloved marina and have already made improvements while maintaining the original charm of this special place.  

Lovely grounds and flowers at Lagoon Cove Marina

Power lines have been buried underground and flower pots adorn the walkways.  We have witnessed lots of activity at Lagoon Cove where reservations are now accepted.  Prawns are still a main feature at the 5 o’clock happy hour, held on the deck of the historic ‘workshop.’  

Happy Hour at the historic Workshop, Lagoon Cove Marina

Boaters will be happy to know that the ‘exercise stations’ (mowing the lawn and chopping wood) are still available in addition to games like ping-pong and bocce ball.  Most important of all is the fact that the new owners came along at the right time, saving Lagoon Cove from becoming a logging camp.  For the full story, see the upcoming eNews article entitled "The Axe that Nearly Felled Lagoon Cove" at www.WaggonerGuide.com

 

Historic Ruins

 

 



Docks and Native Village of New Vancouver

This morning we made our way back west through Cramer Pass, then turned south along Retreat and Spring Passages, arriving at New Vancouver on the north side of Harbledown Island.  New Vancouver is a Native village in The Broughtons referred to as Tzatsisnukomi in the Kwak’wala language.  After tying-up at the dock, we were greeted by a band member who collected payment for our moorage, the band office was closed that day.  

Big House at New Vancouver

Beautiful Totems in front of the Big House

We commented on the nice ‘big house’ and the new totems located in front.  She proudly announced that they were carrying on the work started by her grandfather who had passed away last year.  She further explained that a ‘big house’ has one fire pit as distinguished from a ‘longhouse’ which has two fire pits.  We appreciated her warm welcome as she no doubt appreciated our interest in her Native culture.  After settling in and grabbing a bite to eat, we lowered the dinghy and headed to a nearby abandoned Native village site on the southwest side of Village Island, just one and a half miles away.  

Abandoned Native Village on Village Island

The white midden beaches and clear blue water are very picturesque.  It’s best to wear boots, long pants, and a long-sleeved shirt as the ruins are quite overgrown. 

Landing the dinghy at Village Island

There are two sets of large poles left from the longhouses that once stood here, and the remains of a large apartment-style building and houses from a later period.  Some of the houses have since collapsed and continue to be taken over by nature.  We stopped here several years ago and inadvertently found the backend of a bear among the bushes, this time we were more ‘bear aware’ and made noise and conversation while touring the area.  

Remains of a Longhouse, Village Island

Although small, this abandoned village is fascinating to visit and is within an easy dinghy ride from New Vancouver.  For an even closer dinghy ride, you can anchor the mother-ship in a cove just north of the abandoned village site.  

Village Ruins on Village Island

Impressive stone walls on Harbledown Island

The next stop by dinghy was ‘Monks' Wall’ on Harbledown Island located southwest of Dead Point.  We had an approximate latitude but not a longitude, so finding the exact spot proved challenging.  We found the given latitude and started scouring the shoreline for any evidence of an early homestead and stone wall.  We spotted what looked like a cairn and hoped it was marking the spot to go ashore.  We tied-off the dinghy; and sure enough, we found the ruins of large rock walls hidden just inside the tree line.  It is not known where the nickname ‘Monks' Wall’ came from, but the stone walls were not built by monks but by William Herbert and Mary Anne Galley, who acquired 160 acres on Harbledown Island in the late 1800’s.  

Remains of stone wall archway

They established a homestead with fruit trees and livestock, including cows, pigs, sheep, and chickens.  The homestead was defined by large well-built walls, some of which are still standing.  Mr. and Mrs. Galley also created a trading post identified with a stone archway over the entrance.  The arch has since collapsed but the rock wall supports are still intact.  

Remains of extensive rock walls around the homestead

Bits and pieces of dishes and rusted hardware can also be seen at the site, left as a collection for others to enjoy.  While walking around the impressive rock walls, we couldn't help but imagine what stories have gone untold.  

A Cairn marks the spot to go ashore

Returning back to the dinghy, we made note of the GPS location on our hand-held InReach DeLorme which read:  50 35.408 N and 126 35.107 W; we also stacked more rocks on the cairn to help others find this special place.  

Dinghy Landing on either side of the Cairn

Clear-cut logging has taken place behind the homestead, but fortunately a row of trees were left in place and the rock walls were left undisturbed.