Pruth to Shearwater




Haikai Passage, exiting seaward

 

We exited Pruth Bay via the north arm of Kwakshua Channel and entered Haikai Passage, exposed to the ocean.  Our planned route was to enter Kildidt Sound and skirt through the Kittyhawk Group, and Hurricane, Spitfire, and Spider Islands.  These islands were named in honor of aircraft flown in WWII.  The Royal Canadian Air Force had a seaplane base at Shearwater just to the north of these islands and flew surveillance flights along the coast. 

Nalau Passage, heading out to sea

We hoped to visit the ruins of the Radar Station on Spider Island so headed west out to sea through Haiki Passage, the steep swell wasn’t to our liking so we ducked into the protected waters of Edward Channel and Nalau Passage, exiting to sea again at Kildidt Sound.  We were met with even steeper seas, 10-foot swells at short intervals.  Tacking back and forth to manage the seas became a challenge due to the numerous rocks and reefs in the area, not a comfortable situation.  

Entering Kildidt Sound, reefs awash

With team work and concentration on piloting and navigating, we made our way back from wince we came.  How did the early explorers do it with no charts and no GPS?!  Some unfortunately didn’t, and were dashed upon the rocks.  The steep waves encountered were created by an ebb tide meeting the sea over relatively shallow depths of 200 and 300 feet, stacking waves up at the entrances to the inland waters.  The islands west of Kildilt Sound would have to wait for better conditions.  

Calm waters in Fisher Channel

We followed Nalau Passage back to the inside waters of Fitz Hugh Sound and Fisher Channel, our backdoor to calmer waters.  Continuing north along Fisher Channel, we exited at Lama Passage heading for the community of Shearwater, our destination for the day.  Before arriving at Shearwater, we made a stop at Lizzie Cove along Lama Passage.  

Lizzie Cove residence and guest dock

Tucked inside the southeast end of the cove is the private residence of Pete and Rene, who offer ample side-tie moorage for visitors and overnight guests.  Although rustic, it’s worth a stop to visit their gift shop and see their extensive gardens and hothouse full of plants and fruit bearing trees.  

Impressive Gardens at Lizzie Cove

Their two resident dogs and BeeBee the chicken were there to greet us.  

Checking out the Gift Shop at Lizzie Cove

During the winter months Pete and Rene work in their wood shop creating artistic pieces which you can purchase in their nice gift shop.  After a pleasant visit, we continued to Shearwater, arriving at 6pm; the docks were full of pleasure boaters who had arrived early in the day.  We anchored in the bay for the night along with a few fishing boats, time to witness the glow of the evening sun after a long day.  The following morning we found space at the docks and enjoyed all the pleasantries that Shearwater has to offer – the latte bar in the gift shop, the nice laundry facilities, and dinner out at the pub/restaurant overlooking the marina.  

Shearwater, an important stop in the Northern B.C. Coast

Shearwater is an important stop for boaters along this stretch of the coast, providing fuel services, haul-out services, and marine supplies.  Potable water is available at both the fuel dock and on the guest dock.  

Resident Eagles at Shearwater

Two resident eagles often perch in an old snag at the marina park, usually around dusk and are fun to watch.  Crows on the other hand can be a pesky bunch.  They have learned that boaters who inadvertently leave their companionway door open is an invitation to ‘happy hour.’  People on a sailboat behind us had gone for a walk, and when they returned discovered that the crows had helped themselves to cookies and grapes, while leaving white ‘calling cards’ behind.  

Busy Docks at Shearwater

Bears this year have also been somewhat of a nuisance, one in particular who seems to be looking for companionship was spotted near the school.  So far bears haven’t stormed the small grocery store at the marina, where we picked up a few items for the galley.  

New Grocery Store under construction at New Bella Bella

A wider selection of groceries can be found across the bay at the Native band store in New Bella Bella, accessed by a SeaBus; supplies for the store arrive by barge every week on Sunday.  The band grocery store has been in a temporary location for a few years since a fire destroyed the old grocery store.  A new grocery is currently under construction in New Bella Bella and is due to be completed in the fall of 2017.  Locals and visitors alike are looking forward to the new store which will have an in-house bakery.  Also new will be the option to have fresh meats like beef and pork cut per the customer’s specifications.  Chicken will continue to be stocked in frozen form.  

SeaBus arriving at New Bella Bella

We enjoyed taking the SeaBus over to New Bella Bella, a better choice than by dinghy since it was raining that day.  We had the opportunity to talk with Jay, our SeaBus captain who also has experience handling tugs and shared some interesting stories.  When we arrived at New Bella Bella, we were impressed with the size of the new grocery store which appears to be nearly complete on the outside.  Crew with heavy equipment were hard at work continuing to make progress.  We also noted that a new dock has been installed in front of the fuel pumps at the pier, a nice improvement from previous years.  While in New Bella Bella, we had lunch at the Waglisla Restaurant which serves good Asian dishes; we would recommend this café as a fun afternoon outing when visiting the area.