Ghost Town of The Rain People



Transiting Gunboat Passage

Today’s destination Ocean Falls, is a modern-day ghost town which continues to intrigue us, we always seem to discover something new as we wander through the ruins of this once populace mill town.  We departed Shearwater through Gunboat Passage, which connects to Fisher Channel.  Gunboat Passage has several reefs but are well marked so it’s relatively easy to transit.  Reaching Fisher Channel, we turned north and eventually entered Cousins Inlet.  

Impressive Cousins Inlet, village of Martin Valley below

Guest Dock at Ocean Falls

The small village of Martin Valley and neighboring Ocean Falls are tucked inside Cousins Inlet backed by impressive mountains.  We arrived at the docks of Ocean Falls, anxious to walk the empty streets and look up at the open windows with curtains flapping in the breeze, imagining someone was peering back at us.  Ocean Falls was once a bustling town of 5,000 people in the 1960’s; but when Crown Zellerbach shut down their paper mill here in 1973, most of the people left.  

Abandoned vehicle, dormitory in background

Unable to take everything with them, evidence of happy lives were left behind including furniture, appliances, fixtures and even cars – all ghostly reminders of what once was.  The Province of British Columbia tried to retain work here, but that too failed and more people left in 1980; today, only 40 full-time residents live in the area.  

Family homes overgrown by shrubs

Walking through the streets now covered with moss, and strolling along boulevards with homes now engulfed in vines and vegetation, evokes all kinds of emotions, everything from curiosity, amazement, and disappointment to wonder, admiration, and hope.  People who once lived here no doubt were proud of their homes and their town, believing they had a long future ahead of them at Ocean Falls.  Their sudden departure meant taking their memories with them and finding work elsewhere to start anew.  

Where are the faces that once peered from these windows?

Crown Zellerbach relocated most of the workers to other mills, where new bonds of friendship would need to be formed.  As we walked through the streets around the buildings and homes, it was easy to imagine the sound of children playing in the streets, mothers hosting tea, and fathers going off to work.  Now the houses stand silent and the windows have no faces.  Some of the houses have collapsed, while others continue to be strangled by vines and shrubs.  Rhododendrons, fruit trees, and hanging flower baskets give evidence that people were fully engaged here.  

The once grand Hotel at Ocean Falls

Schools, recreational facilities, a large hotel, and even an olympic-size swimming pool attest to the grandeur of this planned community.  You can read the full history about Ocean Falls in the book “The Rain People, the Story of Ocean Falls” by Bruce Ramsey.  Boaters and other visitors come from all over to visit Ocean Falls.  A small ferry arrives once a week from New Bella Bella, Shearwater, and Bella Coola.  Residents who live year-round at Ocean Falls work for the dam or the hatchery that raises salmon smolt.  

Vines taking over the old Hotel

Part-time summer residents run seasonal lodges, the Saggo’s Saloon, and of course the marina where boaters appreciate the abundance of clean, pure water to fill their tanks.  During the last weekend of August, Ocean Falls hosts their Annual Salmon Derby and BBQ, a popular event open to the public, payment can be made at the wharfinger’s office on the dock.  

Saggo's Saloon

After our walk through Ocean Falls, we got out the bicycles and rode into Martin Valley (1 ½ miles) to visit Saggo’s Saloon, which is only open on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from 4pm – 7pm.  The place was hopping with both locals and visitors, many of whom were from Washington State.  

Having fun at Saggo's Saloon

It was a hoot with lots of lively conversation and interesting characters.  Hours of operation for the Pub are posted at the dock in Ocean Falls.