People and Pirates



A nostalgic scene at Clam Bay

After our stop at Montague Harbour, we continued northwest and anchored for the night on the east side of Thetis and Penelakut Islands in Clam Bay.  A shallow, narrow channel called ‘The Cut’ separates the islands and can be transited by dinghy or small craft only at high water.  

A group of young Natives practice paddling skills

We arrived at Clam Bay in the late afternoon just as a classic yellow sailboat slowly motored past, and a team of Native rowers appeared later that evening to practice their paddling skills; a feeling of nostalgia swept over us. 

The Cut between Thetis and Penelakut Islands

The following morning, we motored the dinghy through ‘The Cut,’ being careful to raise the outdrive when needed.  Going through on a 7-foot tide, we saw a 1-foot depth at the shallowest areas. 

Natives dig for clams along The Cut

Natives lined the shore digging for clams, having arrived by canoe and other small craft; it seemed to be an important event of the day.  Once through ‘The Cut,’ we visited the two marinas that lie on the other side on Thetis Island – Thetis Island Marina and Telegraph Harbour Marina.  Thetis Island Marina is popular with the locals, and pleasure cruisers often stop here for fuel; the marina has a liquor store, pub, and restaurant.  Telegraph Harbour Marina, at the north end of the harbour, is popular among yacht clubs as a destination for rendezvous; the marina hosts at least 30 clubs per year.  

Telegraph Harbour Marina on Thetis Island

The lovely grounds at Telegraph Harbour Marina include expansive yards, picnic tables, and a covered pavilion for group gatherings.  Ice cream and homemade pies are a tradition at Telegraph Cove, a popular draw for boaters.  The marina store also carries Bosa deli items such as cheeses, sausages, and packaged foods.  Boaters are permitted to use the community trail system on the island, accessible from the marina.  Small businesses dot the island such as the Pot of Gold Coffee (shipped all over the world) and a Saturday Market with an honor-system payment box.  Domaine Jasmin Vineyard & Winery (250-246-9494), located several miles north, is a recent addition on the island (domainejasmin.com).  We were told that arrangements for group transportation to the Winery are possible through the marina with a return trip provided by winery personnel.  We look forward to visiting here again!  

Beautiful Herring Bay on Ruxton Island

Continuing north to Ruxton Island, we pulled into scenic Herring Bay, skirted by weather-carved sandstone walls.  As noted in the Waggoner Guide, we were careful to avoid the charted rock ledge to the west and enter only through the north entrance.  Herring Bay looks to be a fun place to explore among the sand stone cliffs.  

Treasure Chest at Pirates Cove on De Courcy Island Marine Park

Next stop, Pirates Cove on De Courcy Island, located about a mile north of Herring Bay.  The name, Pirates Cove, stirs up imaginative stories and images.  Indeed, the island has a treasure chest next to the Provincial Marine Park sign, which children love to investigate.  This is a lovely marine park with trails that lead through the forest and along the sculptured shoreline.  The actions by a pirate of a different sort played out here in the late 1920’s and early 30’s.  Brother XII claimed to be a divine master from another world, who would teach the mysteries of ancient Egypt and usher in a new age.  He convinced up to 8,000 followers to contribute to the cause; some people gave up their entire life savings.  

Provincial Marine Park at Pirates Cove

The funds were used to purchase land, including De Courcy Island where a settlement was built on the north end.  It is said that any excess money was converted to gold coins, put into glass jars and placed inside cedar chests, none of which have yet been found; you never know what your anchor may pull up in Pirates Cove!  Brother XII and his Madame Zee, were to be brought to trial on several charges in 1933 at Nanaimo, but they disappeared on the colony’s boat never to be seen again.  

Boats stern-tied in Pirates Cove

A portion of the island was acquired in 1966 for a Provincial Marine Park.  Today, boaters arrive to enjoy this beautiful setting, making use of the numerous stern-tie mooring rings around Pirates Cove, once known as Gospel Cove.