Remote Island Living




False Bay on Lasqueti Island

False Bay Anchorage, Lasqueti Island

 

At anchor in the northwest corner of False Bay on Lasqueti Island, we were greeted by blue sky and a warm sun-lit morning.  After a leisurely breakfast, we lowered the dinghy and motored to the southeast side of the bay to visit the tiny village of Lasqueti.  The public float, located on the south side of the passenger ferry landing, can accommodate dinghies and small water craft.  

Ferry Landing at Lasqueti Village

The cove on the north side of the ferry landing is filled with private buoys and no longer available for anchorage.  After securing the dinghy at the public float, we walked ashore to visit the small store; they always seem to have in-house baked goodies and island jams for sale.  We purchased a jar of ‘Lemon And Local Kiwi Marmalade with a Splash of Grand Marnier;’ who could resist such a tempting combination?!  After a visit to the store, guests can make use of the picnic tables overlooking the bay and village pier.  

Lasqueti Island residents disembark with supplies

It is always fun to watch the passenger ferry arrive at Lasqueti, disgorging people and supplies, everything from food stuffs to large appliances.  There is no car ferry to the island so everything has to be carried on and off by foot.  If you want to get a taste of simple, remote-island living, this is the place to visit.  

A creative way to carry supplies

An open-air market is held from mid-June to September, located at the ‘art centre’ about a quarter-mile up the road from the ferry landing.  

Lasqueti Village on Lasqueti Island

Wanting to make the most of the beautiful weather, we took the dinghy back to the mother ship and continued our journey around the north end of Lasqueti Island, following Sabine Channel.  We passed along Jedediah Island, a marine park which we visited last year; Jedediah is one of our favorite places (see article entitled ‘Paradise Found on Jedediah Island,’ page 240 in the 2017 Waggoner Guide).  

Boats stern-tied at Jedediah Island

Remote island-living was a scene played out on Jedediah Island in the late 1800’s.  From Jedediah we rounded the south end of Texada Island and headed north across Malaspina Strait.  

Malaspina Strait

The flat seas, blue sky, and snow-covered mountain peaks made for a beautiful crossing.  

Agamemnon Channel

We chose Green Bay for our night’s anchorage, located a few miles up Agamemnon Channel off Malaspina Strait. 

 

Rare Flowers, Rare Find

 




Pulpstone Column on Newcastle Island intended for notable buildings such as the U.S. San Francisco Mint

 

After arriving at Nanaimo in the evening via Gabriola and Commodore Passages, we moored at Newcastle Island, a fascinating Provincial Park.  A detailed description of the island’s history can be found in the Waggoner Guide and in our blogs from previous years; those visiting for the first time won’t want to miss the pulpstone quarry left over from the late 1800’s which operated until the early 1930’s.  Our dog, Java, loves the open fields, trails, and beach walks.  Visiting the Dinghy Dock Pub on adjacent Protection Island is another unique experience.  During nesting season, walk onto the island via the ramp behind the pub and turn right to see the numerous Herons nesting in the trees.  A quiet walk helps to preserve these nesting areas from human disturbance.  

Port of Nanaimo docks

The following morning we moved the boat across the bay to Port Nanaimo.  

Walkways around the Harbour, a nice afternoon stroll

The city has much to offer including shops, good restaurants, museums, and performing arts.  A shopping mall with a grocery store and housewares is located within easy walking distance of the marina docks.  After gathering a few provisions, we headed across the Strait of Georgia with flat, calm seas and overcast skies.  Just north of Nanaimo we approached a group of small islands and islets called the Ballenas-Winchelsea Archipelago, a collection of 19 islands.  While motoring past the islets, we were surprised to discover a small boat tucked between the islands at the north end of South Winchelsea Island.  Upon closer inspection, the boat had tied-up at an old dock and was getting ready to depart so we pulled in, wanting to investigate further.  

Got d' Fever and a fishing boat at S. Winchelsea Island

Clearly, the dock had not been maintained in a number of years and had rusty cleats and moss covered decking with a few rotten boards.  The posted sign indicated that the island belonged to The Nature Conservancy (TLC) of B.C. (250-479-8053); No camping, campfires, or pets allowed ashore. 

This 25-acrea ecological preserve has a number of rare plant species, including Garry Oak, Arbutus, Oceanspray, Camas Lilly and Chocolate Lilly.  This is also the site for nesting and resting bird species; Steller Sea Lions haul out on the banks of the adjacent North Winchelsea Island. 

According the TLC web site, visitors can stop here but should stay on the trail to protect the fragile plants; the trail starts at the west end of the house (once used by kayak tour groups) and is marked with posts; the first part of the trail is a little overgrown and may be hard to find. 

A sport fishing boat soon arrived and tied-up at the dock, a convenient stop for them to clean their catch off the stern of the boat, providing discarded pieces to the seagulls and sea lions.  Perhaps this dock on South Winchelsea Island is a local’s best kept secret. 

It’s a lovely place to visit; the rare wildflowers and shrubs are interspersed among the rock outcroppings, creating some nice opportunities for photos.  

Guest Dock at South Winchelsea Island

Continuing across the Strait of Georgia, we arrived at False Bay on Lasqueti Island to spend the evening at anchor.

People and Pirates



A nostalgic scene at Clam Bay

After our stop at Montague Harbour, we continued northwest and anchored for the night on the east side of Thetis and Penelakut Islands in Clam Bay.  A shallow, narrow channel called ‘The Cut’ separates the islands and can be transited by dinghy or small craft only at high water.  

A group of young Natives practice paddling skills

We arrived at Clam Bay in the late afternoon just as a classic yellow sailboat slowly motored past, and a team of Native rowers appeared later that evening to practice their paddling skills; a feeling of nostalgia swept over us. 

The Cut between Thetis and Penelakut Islands

The following morning, we motored the dinghy through ‘The Cut,’ being careful to raise the outdrive when needed.  Going through on a 7-foot tide, we saw a 1-foot depth at the shallowest areas. 

Natives dig for clams along The Cut

Natives lined the shore digging for clams, having arrived by canoe and other small craft; it seemed to be an important event of the day.  Once through ‘The Cut,’ we visited the two marinas that lie on the other side on Thetis Island – Thetis Island Marina and Telegraph Harbour Marina.  Thetis Island Marina is popular with the locals, and pleasure cruisers often stop here for fuel; the marina has a liquor store, pub, and restaurant.  Telegraph Harbour Marina, at the north end of the harbour, is popular among yacht clubs as a destination for rendezvous; the marina hosts at least 30 clubs per year.  

Telegraph Harbour Marina on Thetis Island

The lovely grounds at Telegraph Harbour Marina include expansive yards, picnic tables, and a covered pavilion for group gatherings.  Ice cream and homemade pies are a tradition at Telegraph Cove, a popular draw for boaters.  The marina store also carries Bosa deli items such as cheeses, sausages, and packaged foods.  Boaters are permitted to use the community trail system on the island, accessible from the marina.  Small businesses dot the island such as the Pot of Gold Coffee (shipped all over the world) and a Saturday Market with an honor-system payment box.  Domaine Jasmin Vineyard & Winery (250-246-9494), located several miles north, is a recent addition on the island (domainejasmin.com).  We were told that arrangements for group transportation to the Winery are possible through the marina with a return trip provided by winery personnel.  We look forward to visiting here again!  

Beautiful Herring Bay on Ruxton Island

Continuing north to Ruxton Island, we pulled into scenic Herring Bay, skirted by weather-carved sandstone walls.  As noted in the Waggoner Guide, we were careful to avoid the charted rock ledge to the west and enter only through the north entrance.  Herring Bay looks to be a fun place to explore among the sand stone cliffs.  

Treasure Chest at Pirates Cove on De Courcy Island Marine Park

Next stop, Pirates Cove on De Courcy Island, located about a mile north of Herring Bay.  The name, Pirates Cove, stirs up imaginative stories and images.  Indeed, the island has a treasure chest next to the Provincial Marine Park sign, which children love to investigate.  This is a lovely marine park with trails that lead through the forest and along the sculptured shoreline.  The actions by a pirate of a different sort played out here in the late 1920’s and early 30’s.  Brother XII claimed to be a divine master from another world, who would teach the mysteries of ancient Egypt and usher in a new age.  He convinced up to 8,000 followers to contribute to the cause; some people gave up their entire life savings.  

Provincial Marine Park at Pirates Cove

The funds were used to purchase land, including De Courcy Island where a settlement was built on the north end.  It is said that any excess money was converted to gold coins, put into glass jars and placed inside cedar chests, none of which have yet been found; you never know what your anchor may pull up in Pirates Cove!  Brother XII and his Madame Zee, were to be brought to trial on several charges in 1933 at Nanaimo, but they disappeared on the colony’s boat never to be seen again.  

Boats stern-tied in Pirates Cove

A portion of the island was acquired in 1966 for a Provincial Marine Park.  Today, boaters arrive to enjoy this beautiful setting, making use of the numerous stern-tie mooring rings around Pirates Cove, once known as Gospel Cove.

Unexpected Surprises

Coast Guard Hovercraft, SIYAY



Shortly after departing Hope Bay, to our surprise we saw a vessel on AIS approaching us from behind at 35 knots which was tracking right over the top of Perry Rock; what on earth could it be?!  I grabbed the camera and started snapping away, turned out to be a Canada Coast Guard hovercraft which sped past us like we were standing still.  

Canada Coast Guard Hovercrafts

The vessel stopped ahead of us and joined another Coast Guard hovercraft and they sped off together; in the distance were two war ships – “was this some kind of exercise, or were they after us again,” we joked.  As we made our way around to the west side of North Pender Harbour we encountered traffic of a different sort, four ferries and a tanker; all of whom would be crossing our course.  

Otter Bay Marina

We adjusted our speed and direction of travel to avoid the maze of commercial ships that seemed to converge all at once.  Soon Otter Bay Marina, nestled behind a small spit of land, came into view.  This attractive marina is the perfect place to sit back and relax.  The grounds are lovely and include garden walkways with cozy seating areas.  

Otter Bay is the perfect place to sit back and relax

New owners took over the marina in the fall of 2016 and are making updates to the marina web site.  

Lovely grounds and pools at Otter Bay Marina

The two swimming pools are being readied for guests, and BBQ weekends are slated to start this June.  Boaters should note that the buoys located near the docks are now all private and not part of the marina operation.  After an enjoyable respite at Otter Bay, we were ready to continue to our next stop, Montague Harbour on Galiano Island.  

Montague Harbour Marina; Public Wharf on left (blue ramp)

New this year is camera monitoring at the Montague Public Wharf and a pleasant greeting from the on-site wharfinger.  Boats and dinghies can tie-up at the Public Wharf for a two-hour complimentary stay; after which a fee must be paid at the self-registration payment box at the head of the ramp.  The adjacent Montague Harbour Marina is encouraging boaters to get their reservations in early, as they are already filling up for July and August.  The huge harbour has more than ample space for boats to anchor out; or payment for one of the marine park buoys is also an option.  

Monument in honor of Dionisio Alcala Galiano



Galiano Monument hidden in grass at Montague Marine Park

Montague Harbour has long been a favorite destination among boaters for its many amenities and points of interest.  What may come as a surprise to some, is the often overlooked monument found in the marine park in honor of Dionisio Alcala Galiano (1760-1805), an early Spanish explorer, who in 1792 sailed the waters to the east of Vancouver Island as Commander of the schooner, Sutil. 

To find the memorial from the Montague Marine Park dock, stay to the right at the top of the stairs and follow the shoreline towards the flagpole and park entrance road.  The monument is below the park signage board, somewhat hidden in the grass.  Discoveries and surprises had filled our day, all part of the fascinating adventure of boating in the Pacific Northwest.

 

 

New Eats on North Pender

Checking out the New Bar at Port Browning Marina

With overcast skies and rain showers, it was a good day to be inside checking on some new restaurants for the Waggoner Cruising Guide.  The new modern-style bar at Port Browning Marina is nearly complete and should be ready for patrons in a couple of weeks.  

Glass-enclosed patio off the New Bar

A glass-enclosed patio overlooking the marina is included in this refurbish project.  The wood-burning stove is the only item kept from the small café that once occupied this space.  

The Pub/Restaurant and New Bar at Port Browning Marina

The family dining room at the front of the building is still operating as usual with added improvements to the outdoor deck offering great views of the harbour.  Now under the auspices of the Mill Bay Marine Group, Port Browning has plans to expand the marina and install new docks; work is slated to begin in September of 2017.  

Vanilla Leaf Bakery at Driftwood Centre

Boaters, ourselves included, enjoy visiting Vanilla Leaf Bakery and the well-stocked Tru Value Foods store located at the Driftwood Centre a short half-mile walk from the marina, or you can call the Pender Island Cab (250-629-2222).  A fairly good selection of marine supplies are available at the Driftwood Auto & Marine store (250-629-3002).  Before departing the docks, we said goodbye to our Customs & Border Patrol friends who had arrived at Port Browning shortly after we did; were they following us?  No, not really.  They came over to our boat for a friendly chat and shared with us that the customs dock at Poet’s Cove in Bedwell Harbour had been damaged by recent storms and would be under repair starting this September.  

 

Hope Bay Pubic Wharf

Departing Port Browning, we headed north along Plumper Sound to our next destination, Hope Bay Public Wharf, located on the shore along North Pender Island.  This historic landing has attractive buildings above the wharf which house several small businesses including the Red Tree Gallery, Dockside Realty, and the Pender Is. Veterinary Clinic along with a new café.  



The attractive New Philly's Diner at Hope Bay

The popular Hope Bay Café that closed in 2016 has re-opened as Philly’s Diner and carries on the tradition of tasty, well-prepared dishes.  

Delicious Meals at Philly's Diner are sure to please

We chose the weekly seafood dish served with saffron rice and seasonal vegetables, presented in a delicious sauce with a sautéed salmon filet topped with pieces of smoked cured meat, definitely worth the stop.  The décor is also similar, showcasing local art; and you can’t beat the window-side views overlooking Navy Channel.  Philly’s Diner is open Monday through Saturday from 11am to 9pm.  

Secret Coves and Passages




A scattering of smaller Gulf Islands along Haro Strait

 

After a night’s stay in Port Sidney, we headed east to visit some of the smaller islands found scattered in Haro Strait which make up part of the Southern Gulf Islands.  Passing the west end of Forrest Island, we pulled into a pretty little cove on the north side which looked to be a wonderful day anchorage; however, being a private island, we would not be able to go ashore.  

Pretty Cove at National Park Reserve, Rum Island

'Isle-de-Lis at Rum Island,' a Gulf Islands National Park Reserve, would be a better choice for an afternoon hike, so we continued a little further and entered a similar pretty cove on Rum Island; signage for the park is clearly posted along the shore.  Rum Island is said to have come by its name during prohibition.  The island is strategically located along the boundary between Canada and the U.S.  

Turn Point Lighthouse seen in the distance from Rum Island

You can look across Haro Strait from Rum Island and see Turn Point Lighthouse on Stuart Island in Washington State.  Perhaps Rum Island served as a convenient pick-up point for the elicit drink during prohibition days in the States (1920-1933).   Today, Customs & Border Protection personnel keep a watchful eye along this water boundary.  We had just taken the dinghy ashore, when a patrol boat suddenly appeared in the cove circling our boat and checking out our activity ashore, they must have seen our customs clearance number posted on the pilothouse window and decided we were harmless tourists; they left almost as quickly as they appeared.  

Going ashore, Isle-de-Lis at Rum Island

We didn’t find any rum bottles hidden on the island, but we did find some picnic tables and tent platforms.  It’s a cute island to explore with great views and nice trails, a perfect lunch stop.  After our day-anchorage at 'Isle-de-Lis at Rum Island,' we continued north for the Pender Islands, passing through Bedwell Harbour on South Pender, the site of the luxury marina resort, Poet’s Cove.  A custom's dock is located at Poet's Cove Marina and is another 'point of entry' to clear customs for boats coming from the U.S.  The beautiful resort at Poet's Cove has ample moorage.  Adjacent to the resort is Beaumont/Mount Norman Park, offering excellent walking trails and 14-15 mooring balls able to accommodate boats up to 50 feet, or 40 feet dependent upon expected winds.  

Boat transiting Pender Canal, southbound

Signage for size limits are posted on the buoys.  As evening was drawing near, we decided to anchor in Port Browning on North Pender Island, where we would be protected from the day's southwest wind.  North Pender Island is reached by boat from either Swanson Channel or Plumper Sound, or you can take the short-cut found at the northwest end of Bedwell Harbour, a shallow, narrow passage called Pender Canal.  

Approaching Pender Canal Bridge

After checking tide tables and lowering our hinged mast, we were ready to pass under the car bridge that connects the two Pender Islands (see page 200 in the 2017 WG for bridge clearance).  Since the canal has a dogleg, vessels approaching from the opposite direction cannot see each other; boaters should always make a ‘securite’ call on the VHF Radio announcing that they are entering the canal and from which direction.  

With Mast down, m/v Got d' Fever safely passes below

Sure enough, just as we approached the south end of the canal, a boat announced they were entering from the north, transiting southbound.  We waited until they were through and then it was our turn.  A short, fun transit, and we were on the other side in Port Browning at North Pender Island, we set the hook and settled-in for a restful night.

Clearing Customs




Sidney Spit

Departing Roche Harbor in the afternoon, we made our way across Haro Strait, commonly referred to as ‘the big pond,’ to clear customs in Sidney.  The seas were calm and the beaches on Sidney Spit glistened in the sunlight.  

At the Customs Dock, Port Sidney

We pulled up to the customs dock in Port Sidney Marina and called 888-226-7277 to clear customs.  “No we don’t have any fresh fruit or vegetables including potatoes; no house plants or firearms; and no cash over $10,000.”  Yes, we were under the limit allowed for wine and beer (see page 19 in the 2017 Waggoner Cruising Guide).  After providing our vessel’s documentation number, our names and passport numbers and verification of our dog’s rabies vaccination, we were given a clearance number to be posted on the portside and starboard side windows of the pilothouse.  

Sidney's Waterfront Promenade

The next step was to call the marina for a slip assignment and settle-in and enjoy one of British Columbia’s most livable cities.  Sidney offers some great restaurants, a beautiful waterfront promenade, and is a convenient destination to stock-up on fresh fruits and vegetables along with other items for the galley.  

Sidney, a great place to stretch the legs!

There are two main grocery stores in town, one of which is within easy walking distance of the marina, and a liquor store nearby.  Boaters can find haul-out and repair services at Van Isle Marina a short distance north in Tsehum Harbour along with several chandleries.  A small chandlery with boat supplies and gifts (Booty's Boat Locker) is conveniently located at Port Sidney Marina upstairs from the harbormaster’s office.  Our first purchase was the flag of Canada to be flown while in Canadian waters.  It is customary for boaters to fly a flag of the country in which they are cruising, commonly called a ‘courtesy flag.’  

Downtown Sidney

Our Canada flag was so worn from last year’s cruising, we needed a replacement.  Our other emergency was replacing the espresso maker which had gone on the fritz, an easy item to find in Sidney.