More Ghostly Images (Ocean Falls)

 

We couldn't say goodbye to Ocean Falls without sharing more haunting photos of this special place, enjoy!  (More about Ocean Falls in the previous blog posting.)

Doorbell

Lost Neighbors

Back Porch invaded by shrubs

A once grand home

Ghost Town of The Rain People



Transiting Gunboat Passage

Today’s destination Ocean Falls, is a modern-day ghost town which continues to intrigue us, we always seem to discover something new as we wander through the ruins of this once populace mill town.  We departed Shearwater through Gunboat Passage, which connects to Fisher Channel.  Gunboat Passage has several reefs but are well marked so it’s relatively easy to transit.  Reaching Fisher Channel, we turned north and eventually entered Cousins Inlet.  

Impressive Cousins Inlet, village of Martin Valley below

Guest Dock at Ocean Falls

The small village of Martin Valley and neighboring Ocean Falls are tucked inside Cousins Inlet backed by impressive mountains.  We arrived at the docks of Ocean Falls, anxious to walk the empty streets and look up at the open windows with curtains flapping in the breeze, imagining someone was peering back at us.  Ocean Falls was once a bustling town of 5,000 people in the 1960’s; but when Crown Zellerbach shut down their paper mill here in 1973, most of the people left.  

Abandoned vehicle, dormitory in background

Unable to take everything with them, evidence of happy lives were left behind including furniture, appliances, fixtures and even cars – all ghostly reminders of what once was.  The Province of British Columbia tried to retain work here, but that too failed and more people left in 1980; today, only 40 full-time residents live in the area.  

Family homes overgrown by shrubs

Walking through the streets now covered with moss, and strolling along boulevards with homes now engulfed in vines and vegetation, evokes all kinds of emotions, everything from curiosity, amazement, and disappointment to wonder, admiration, and hope.  People who once lived here no doubt were proud of their homes and their town, believing they had a long future ahead of them at Ocean Falls.  Their sudden departure meant taking their memories with them and finding work elsewhere to start anew.  

Where are the faces that once peered from these windows?

Crown Zellerbach relocated most of the workers to other mills, where new bonds of friendship would need to be formed.  As we walked through the streets around the buildings and homes, it was easy to imagine the sound of children playing in the streets, mothers hosting tea, and fathers going off to work.  Now the houses stand silent and the windows have no faces.  Some of the houses have collapsed, while others continue to be strangled by vines and shrubs.  Rhododendrons, fruit trees, and hanging flower baskets give evidence that people were fully engaged here.  

The once grand Hotel at Ocean Falls

Schools, recreational facilities, a large hotel, and even an olympic-size swimming pool attest to the grandeur of this planned community.  You can read the full history about Ocean Falls in the book “The Rain People, the Story of Ocean Falls” by Bruce Ramsey.  Boaters and other visitors come from all over to visit Ocean Falls.  A small ferry arrives once a week from New Bella Bella, Shearwater, and Bella Coola.  Residents who live year-round at Ocean Falls work for the dam or the hatchery that raises salmon smolt.  

Vines taking over the old Hotel

Part-time summer residents run seasonal lodges, the Saggo’s Saloon, and of course the marina where boaters appreciate the abundance of clean, pure water to fill their tanks.  During the last weekend of August, Ocean Falls hosts their Annual Salmon Derby and BBQ, a popular event open to the public, payment can be made at the wharfinger’s office on the dock.  

Saggo's Saloon

After our walk through Ocean Falls, we got out the bicycles and rode into Martin Valley (1 ½ miles) to visit Saggo’s Saloon, which is only open on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from 4pm – 7pm.  The place was hopping with both locals and visitors, many of whom were from Washington State.  

Having fun at Saggo's Saloon

It was a hoot with lots of lively conversation and interesting characters.  Hours of operation for the Pub are posted at the dock in Ocean Falls.

Pruth to Shearwater




Haikai Passage, exiting seaward

 

We exited Pruth Bay via the north arm of Kwakshua Channel and entered Haikai Passage, exposed to the ocean.  Our planned route was to enter Kildidt Sound and skirt through the Kittyhawk Group, and Hurricane, Spitfire, and Spider Islands.  These islands were named in honor of aircraft flown in WWII.  The Royal Canadian Air Force had a seaplane base at Shearwater just to the north of these islands and flew surveillance flights along the coast. 

Nalau Passage, heading out to sea

We hoped to visit the ruins of the Radar Station on Spider Island so headed west out to sea through Haiki Passage, the steep swell wasn’t to our liking so we ducked into the protected waters of Edward Channel and Nalau Passage, exiting to sea again at Kildidt Sound.  We were met with even steeper seas, 10-foot swells at short intervals.  Tacking back and forth to manage the seas became a challenge due to the numerous rocks and reefs in the area, not a comfortable situation.  

Entering Kildidt Sound, reefs awash

With team work and concentration on piloting and navigating, we made our way back from wince we came.  How did the early explorers do it with no charts and no GPS?!  Some unfortunately didn’t, and were dashed upon the rocks.  The steep waves encountered were created by an ebb tide meeting the sea over relatively shallow depths of 200 and 300 feet, stacking waves up at the entrances to the inland waters.  The islands west of Kildilt Sound would have to wait for better conditions.  

Calm waters in Fisher Channel

We followed Nalau Passage back to the inside waters of Fitz Hugh Sound and Fisher Channel, our backdoor to calmer waters.  Continuing north along Fisher Channel, we exited at Lama Passage heading for the community of Shearwater, our destination for the day.  Before arriving at Shearwater, we made a stop at Lizzie Cove along Lama Passage.  

Lizzie Cove residence and guest dock

Tucked inside the southeast end of the cove is the private residence of Pete and Rene, who offer ample side-tie moorage for visitors and overnight guests.  Although rustic, it’s worth a stop to visit their gift shop and see their extensive gardens and hothouse full of plants and fruit bearing trees.  

Impressive Gardens at Lizzie Cove

Their two resident dogs and BeeBee the chicken were there to greet us.  

Checking out the Gift Shop at Lizzie Cove

During the winter months Pete and Rene work in their wood shop creating artistic pieces which you can purchase in their nice gift shop.  After a pleasant visit, we continued to Shearwater, arriving at 6pm; the docks were full of pleasure boaters who had arrived early in the day.  We anchored in the bay for the night along with a few fishing boats, time to witness the glow of the evening sun after a long day.  The following morning we found space at the docks and enjoyed all the pleasantries that Shearwater has to offer – the latte bar in the gift shop, the nice laundry facilities, and dinner out at the pub/restaurant overlooking the marina.  

Shearwater, an important stop in the Northern B.C. Coast

Shearwater is an important stop for boaters along this stretch of the coast, providing fuel services, haul-out services, and marine supplies.  Potable water is available at both the fuel dock and on the guest dock.  

Resident Eagles at Shearwater

Two resident eagles often perch in an old snag at the marina park, usually around dusk and are fun to watch.  Crows on the other hand can be a pesky bunch.  They have learned that boaters who inadvertently leave their companionway door open is an invitation to ‘happy hour.’  People on a sailboat behind us had gone for a walk, and when they returned discovered that the crows had helped themselves to cookies and grapes, while leaving white ‘calling cards’ behind.  

Busy Docks at Shearwater

Bears this year have also been somewhat of a nuisance, one in particular who seems to be looking for companionship was spotted near the school.  So far bears haven’t stormed the small grocery store at the marina, where we picked up a few items for the galley.  

New Grocery Store under construction at New Bella Bella

A wider selection of groceries can be found across the bay at the Native band store in New Bella Bella, accessed by a SeaBus; supplies for the store arrive by barge every week on Sunday.  The band grocery store has been in a temporary location for a few years since a fire destroyed the old grocery store.  A new grocery is currently under construction in New Bella Bella and is due to be completed in the fall of 2017.  Locals and visitors alike are looking forward to the new store which will have an in-house bakery.  Also new will be the option to have fresh meats like beef and pork cut per the customer’s specifications.  Chicken will continue to be stocked in frozen form.  

SeaBus arriving at New Bella Bella

We enjoyed taking the SeaBus over to New Bella Bella, a better choice than by dinghy since it was raining that day.  We had the opportunity to talk with Jay, our SeaBus captain who also has experience handling tugs and shared some interesting stories.  When we arrived at New Bella Bella, we were impressed with the size of the new grocery store which appears to be nearly complete on the outside.  Crew with heavy equipment were hard at work continuing to make progress.  We also noted that a new dock has been installed in front of the fuel pumps at the pier, a nice improvement from previous years.  While in New Bella Bella, we had lunch at the Waglisla Restaurant which serves good Asian dishes; we would recommend this café as a fun afternoon outing when visiting the area.

Weight and Balance

Departing towards sea from Millbrook Cove in Smith Sound, we once again met 6-foot swells at 10 second intervals.  Finishing the third segment of rounding Cape Caution, we entered the relatively protected waters of Fitz Hugh Sound, the beginning of Northern B.C.’s Inside Passage.  

Pruth Bay Anchorage

Turning west into Kwakshua Channel, which nearly cuts Calvert Island in half, we arrived at Pruth Bay.  Boaters come to this popular anchorage to visit the most beautiful beach in B.C.’s north Pacific.  

Beautiful West Beach on Calvert Island

A short trail leads across the neck of the island to ‘West Beach,’ a crescent-shaped sandy beach where mounds of driftwood, coastal trees and flowering plants skirt the shoreline.  Turquoise blue water sweeps around the headlands and islets, rolling into this magnificent coastal setting.  

Turquoise waters roll into shore

Eagles and Falcons soar overhead looking for prey both at sea and among the forest floor.  Trails lead to nine other smaller beaches to the south and three or four other beaches to the north, each one a little different in shape and appearance.  Taking the dinghy into shore, we tied at the dinghy dock provided by the Hakai Beach Institute, a research and conference center located at the head of Pruth Bay.  Boaters are asked to sign the ‘check-in, check-out’ registry when coming ashore.  

Java having fun at the Beach

 
Java, our Waggoner Guide Dog, loves hiking the trail and running on the sandy beach.  She doesn’t seem to like the roar of the ocean and tends to stay back towards the tree line and softer sand.  She was having fun running along the beach, putting some distance between us.  Thinking that there may be predators overhead, I motioned to Leonard to catch up.  About that time a huge Falcon flew overhead peering down at Java, probably calculating the weight and balance; “can I pick her up with one talon or will I need two?”  “That Dachshund sure looks juicy and has two plump drum sticks, one for each of the kids back home.”  Leonard reached Java in time as the Falcon flew back overhead following the same flight pattern as before.  After this close encounter, we kept Java on her leash.  

Others come to enjoy West Beach

West Beach is wild and beautiful; however, those with small dogs would be wise to keep a watchful eye.  If Eagles and Falcons can pick up large salmon, they certainly would be able to pick up a small dog.  A short time later, other visitors came to enjoy this beautiful beach, romping freely with their bigger dog along the surf.

A girl playing in the surf at West Beach

Mission Accomplished




Blunden Harbour, Mainland B.C. Coast

 

From Jennis Bay on the western end of The Broughtons, we retraced our steps through Drury Inlet and Wells Passage, entering Queen Charlotte Strait and turned northwest.  Blunden Harbour was our destination for the day.  Well protected, Blunden Harbour is a popular stop for boaters who take refuge and wait for good weather before rounding Cape Caution.  We found only three other boats in the harbour since it was still fairly early in the season.  

Allison Harbour south of Cape Caution

The following morning the sea conditions were reported to be 4 feet at 10 second intervals, good news for rounding Cape Caution, but we wanted to see Allison Harbour and the inlets beyond Nakwakto Rapids, an area we hadn’t explored in previous years.  Allison Harbour is lovely and is another option for boaters looking for refuge or who want to round Cape Caution in shorter segments instead of in one long day.  A plan might be to anchor in Blunden Harbor, make the short run to Allison Harbour anchorage, round Cap Caution the next day and then anchor at Millbrook Cove in Smith Sound on the north side of Cape Caution, dividing the journey into three short segments.  We noticed two other boats arriving at Allison Harbour, one of which contacted us on the radio and mentioned that they planned to round Cape Caution early the following morning.  

Tug towing logs through Nakwakto Rapids

After visiting Allison Harbour, we turned up Schooner Channel towards Nakwakto Rapids.  We entered Schooner Channel 40 minutes before slack water at Nakwakto Rapids which allowed for the appropriate time of arrival.  Forested, narrow Schooner Channel had some current but was relatively tame.  Just before reaching Nakwakto Rapids, we encountered a tug towing a raft of logs.  With no room to squeeze by, we circled around a small islet allowing the tug to pass through the rapids as we came around and entered behind him.  Except for the tug, we found transiting the rapids to be a non-event.  Of course that’s the idea, you don’t want to go through when the firehose has been turned on!  

Nakwakto Rapids and Turret Rock (Trimble Island)

Nakwakto Rapids can attain speeds of 14.5 knots on large ebb tides and holds a record only second to Sechelt Rapids which can run at 16.5 knots.  One of the world’s fastest, Nakwakto Rapids should be transited only at slack.   Turret Rock lies in the middle of the small passage way and is known locally as Trimble Island.  The roar of the rapids gives the impression that Turret Rock is trembling.  As we passed by, we could see the names of boats that had been painted on boards and attached to trees on Trimble Island.  It’s a long-standing tradition, but getting to and from the island can pose a challenge.  We started laying plans as to how we might accomplish such a task when we came through again on the way back.  Once past Nakwakto Rapids, boaters have the choice of heading east into Nugent Sound or southeast into Seymour Inlet and Frederick Sound, or turn northeast into Belize Inlet with branches to Mereworth Sound and Alison Sound.  One thing is for sure, you will most likely be the only boat around, as this area is seldom visited by pleasure boaters and is extremely isolated and remote.  

Fjord-like Belize Inlet

We chose to traverse beautiful Belize Inlet, a fjord-like channel with steep mountains and numerous waterfalls.  

Pretty Falls in Belize Inlet

The roar of the waterfalls is the only sound in this remote area, we put the nose of Got d’ Fever up close to one of the falls and enjoyed the sights and sounds.  We marveled that this area was once home to the Nakwaktok people.  Two pictographs found in the area give evidence of their previous life here.  In the early 1800’s their main village was in Nugent Sound and by the late 1800’s had made the move to Blunden Harbour.  Thanks to the guidebook, “Cruising the Secret Coast” written by Jennifer and James Hamilton, a sister guidebook to the Waggoner Guide, we were able to find the first pictograph along Belize Inlet.  

Pictograph on Belize Inlet

The pictograph is located on the northern shore of Belize Inlet near the entrance into Alison Sound, this beautiful painting depicts a sailing ship and some canoes, men in the canoes appear to be holding rifles.  

Beautiful Alison Sound

Turning up Alison Sound, we followed the narrow, twisting channel lined with more mountain peaks and cascading waterfalls.  GPS coordinates led us to the second pictograph located on the north shore of Alison Sound, this pictograph shows a row of canoes and their leader.  What might this story be telling us?  

Pictograph on Alison Sound

Perhaps the Natives were coming to trade with the Europeans, or were they getting ready for a hunt?  Motoring to the end of Alison Sound, I couldn’t help but marvel over this large labyrinth of waterways behind and south of Cape Caution, hidden from view to the outside world.  Having reached the head of Alison Sound, a designated Indian Reserve, we backtracked a short distance to Summers Bay and anchored for the night.  The still quiet evening was interrupted only by the sound of a waterfall and the chirping of birds.  The following morning we made the long 30 nautical mile trek back to Nakwakto Rapids, leaving extra time to anchor nearby and attempt a dinghy landing at Turret Rock (Trimble Island).  We wanted to post our boat name on Trimble Island along with the others.  Temporary anchorage was found behind Harvell Islet on the northeast side of Seymour Inlet, within easy reach of the Rapids.  Harvell anchorage is tight and has a rocky bottom; and although the anchor was holding fairly well, we didn’t want to leave the boat unattended.  One of us stayed with the boat, while the other took the dinghy over to Turret Rock.  The dinghy was made ready with an extra-long painter line and a radio for communication was put aboard along with our boat sign, which we had prepared the night before.  Leonard departed for Nakwakto Rapids but returned within a few minutes reporting that the current was still too strong to safely go ashore, we would need to wait for another 30 minutes.  

Got d' Fever added to Turret Rock (Trimble Island)

After waiting for near slack water, he departed once again and radioed to tell me he had made it onto the island.  I continued to monitor the anchor watch on the mother ship, making sure we weren’t dragging anchor and drifting outside the circle of safety.  Within a few minutes, I saw Leonard returning with the dinghy and a big smile on his face; mission accomplished.  He was successful in attaching our boat sign to a tree.  “Getting onto the island was easy; it was walking on the island that was hard!”  Turret Rock is so overgrown that he nearly sank into a hole in the undergrowth.  Safely back aboard, we quickly drew up the dinghy and got underway arriving in time for perfect slack at Nakwakto Rapids; we proudly took photos of our boat name as we cruised past ‘Trimble Island.’  Heading west through Slingsby Channel on a 2-kott ebb current, we were spit out to sea and turned north to round Cape Caution.  Conditions around the Cape weren’t the best but were acceptable with 6 to 7 foot waves at 11 second intervals.  

Millbrook Cove in Smith Sound

We circled around the north end of Cape Caution, entering Smith Sound and anchored for the night at Millbrook Cove having accomplished our goal.    

Living among the Islands



Seas can be rough in Johnstone Strait

Departing Loughborough Inlet, we entered Johnstone Strait via Chancellor Channel.  Johnstone Strait was rough and choppy as it often is but became settled as we neared Port McNeill.  Port McNeill is a nice place to catch up on rest before crossing Queen Charlotte Strait for the Broughton Island group, or waiting for weather to round Cape Caution.  We took on fuel, did a little grocery shopping, and caught up on phone calls and other business matters.  

Using the BBQ at North Island Marina, Port McNeill

North Island Marina at Port McNeill provides a quality custom-made party-size BBQ for guests of the marina to cook meats and vegetables. The Marina starts the BBQ each evening during the boating season, boaters only need to show up with their food items to be cooked.  The large outdoor BBQ float includes tables and chairs with a partial wind break.  What a nice amenity to have at a marina, it saves the fuss and muss of setting up one’s own BBQ equipment.  We made use of the open BBQ filled with briquettes and wood chips which made for a delicious smoke-flavored pork dinner.  

Pulteney Lighthouse near Port McNeill

After a couple night’s stay, we departed Port McNeill, passing Pulteney Lighthouse, and crossed Queen Charlotte Strait in calm seas.  

Crossing Queen Charlotte Strait, Numas Island in background

The glassy-smooth water reflected the billowy white clouds above.  Heading for Sullivan Bay Marina in the western portion of The Broughtons, we entered Wells Passage and Patrick Passage, arriving at the floating-home community and marina of Sullivan Bay.  

Adorable Sullivan Bay Marina, a floating-home community

This well-kept, adorable marina is like a miniature town, all the docks are marked with street names.  There’s even a one-hole golf course with a floating target; hitting the target might take more than one try!  Visitors also enjoy the Happy Hour gatherings and the buffet-style dinners offered in the restaurant.  

Tucker shows-off the new cedar planking at Sullivan Bay Store

Tucker, the resident Yorkie, is always ready to greet guests and usually hangs out near the store.  He was happy to show our dog, Java, where the new ‘poop deck’ is located (behind the fuel dock), and he was quick to point out the new cedar decking in front of the store now nearing completion.  Boaters may wish to 

Sullivan Bay Marina on North Broughton Island

take advantage of the special offer at Sullivan Bay this cruising season - the third night’s stay is free after two paid nights of moorage.  After gathering updates and photos for the Waggoner Guide, we headed west through Stuart Narrows to Jennis Bay located inside Drury Inlet.  

Jennis Bay Marina

Jennis Bay began as a logging camp and in later years became a small marina frequented by pleasure boaters cruising The Broughtons.  Boaters still enjoy stopping here for an off-the-beaten-path experience.  It appears that Jennis Bay is returning to its original roots by hosting forestry personnel, tree planters (early spring), loggers (April to June), and Cedar Block Cutters (all year during various years).  Pleasure boaters might encounter some of these workers and have the opportunity to learn more about the forest industry.  Cedar Block Cutters were engaged at Jennis Bay during our visit.  They salvage downed trees, cutting blocks of cedar (used for shakes) which are flown out by helicopter, 1,200 lbs. at a time.  Although Jennis Bay is quite rustic, it remains an interesting place to visit.  

Happy Hour float at Jennis Bay Marina

Pleasure boaters can still use the covered Happy Hour float for impromptu potlucks and hike the miles of logging roads in the area.  When arriving at Jennis Bay Marina, leave the log boom breakwater and yellow buoys to starboard.  Boaters should be aware that some obstructions in the water lie about 500 feet southeast of the marina’s log boom breakwater consisting of a float with a 5-foot piece of log, plus a separate ‘standing boom’ that extends out from a log slide on the northeastern shore, neither of which are lit.  Use Caution.  

Fishing gear at the Jennis Bay Marina Work Shed

Jennis Bay has approximately 300 feet of moorage space for about 11 boats, depending on size and rafting options.  Fishing boats and Crabbers also moor here.  The Broughton Islands offer abundant anchorages and small family run marinas, each with their own unique character and special events.  Visiting these charming marinas provides a glimpse into the different life-styles that are found among the islands.