Stories behind the People




New Docks at Denham Bay Resort

 

Departing Big Bay, we transited Dent Rapids on a 2-knot current, experiencing some boil but nothing dangerous.  On the northwest side of Dent Rapids is the charming Denham Bay Resort.  We stopped in to check on the new dock installation, an addition of 170 feet for a total of 500 feet of moorage accommodating boats up to 60 feet.  We are happy to report that the new docks are in and the old docks are being removed this week.  Once the new docks have been configured and secured, Peter and Sarah will be ready to welcome guests including those who may not have been able to moor here in previous years.  Their long-time dream of owning a resort continues to evolve for the benefit of everyone.  Denham Bay is not only attractive, but is a convenient place to overnight for timing the rapids in the area. 

Beautiful Cordero Channel

Cordero Channel

Another sunny day made for a pleasant trip up beautiful Cordero Channel.  Next stop, Shoal Bay, one of those very special places with views that can’t be beat.  

The Views at Shoal Bay are hard to beat!

Visitors can relax on the deck or inside the cozy wilderness pub overlooking the pier.  We always enjoy walking through the vegetable gardens adorned with art work and patches of flower beds.  

Lovely Gardens at Shoal Bay (pub in background)

Seems there is something new added each year.  Owners Mark & Cynthia tell us they will be adding gates to the existing artistic wood fence that surrounds the large garden.  While visiting, be sure to ask Mark about his previous career of accompanying race horses and exotic animals on airline flights, he has some interesting stories to tell.  

Homestead at Sidney Bay off Loughborough Inlet

Continuing west, we transited Greene Rapids and then turned north up Loughborough Inlet in search of Sidney Bay and the stories it holds.  Sidney Bay on the west side of Loughborough Inlet is the site of an early homestead where Dane Campbell and Helen Piddington continue to live, having raised their children here.  

Guest Dock at Sidney Bay, Loughborough Inlet

A rustic guest float (approx. 150 ft.) located on the south side of Sidney Bay is like being at one’s own private dock in the wilderness, this place is definitely off the beaten path.  

Picnic Shed in Sidney Bay

The moorage fee is posted at the dock; you can pay at the picnic shed on the float (home-made mailbox deposit), or take the dinghy across the bay to the north side and pay Dane directly at their place of residence.  Wanting to meet Dane, we motored across the bay where he was eagerly awaiting our arrival and invited us to sit and chat.  

Dane waiting to extend a Welcome

Dane talked about the area and the rail-logging that took place here, old ruins and pilings from the period can be seen across the Inlet.  His wife’s book, The Inlet, describes their experiences in Loughborough Inlet; and her other book, The Rumble Seat, describes growing up in the 1930’s near Victoria.  After Dane showed us these books, it made me wonder why people choose to live in such a remote area – is it the peace and quiet? Is it being surrounded by nature and beauty? Or is it the unique adventures that come with the territory?  Sadly, Helen’s health is failing, and the homestead like so many others of that era, may soon fade into history.  

Dinner at the Picnic Shed, our private clubhouse for the day

Glad to have come, we enjoyed our dinner at the picnic shed, our very own exclusive clubhouse for the day.

Picture Perfect Weather



Beach Gardens Resort Marina

The weather has been clear and sunny, allowing the Landon team to capture some of those photos that inspire the imagination.  We exited the northern end of Sechelt Peninsula via Jervis Inlet and pointed the boat into some of the intimate anchorages of Hardy Island Marine Park before heading northwest up Malaspina Strait.  

Beautiful Sunset at Beach Gardens

Reaching Grief Point, we stopped to take advantage of the easy access moorage located at the Beach Gardens Resort & Marina.  The resort is a compound of buildings with hotel-style accommodations and a marina protected by two large breakwaters.  

Malaspina Strait

Continuing up Malaspina Strait the following morning, we entered Desolation Sound, a very scenic region just beyond the communities of Powell River and Lund.  

Desolation Sound

Given the good weather that day, the scenery was spectacular.  

Teakerne Arm Falls

We made a side trip up Teakerne Arm on West Redonda Island, the site of a lovely waterfall and provincial park.  The waters are deep in both arms of Teakerne, so anchorage requires a stern-tie to shore (several rings for stern-ties are near the falls).  

Dinghy Dock at Teakerne Arm

A dinghy dock located just west of the falls provides shore access to an overlook and the short trail leading to Cassel Lake.  

Yuculta Rapids at Big Bay

Continuing northwest up Calm Channel, we passed through Yuculta Rapids on a 2-knot current with relative ease, arriving in Big Bay to spend the night at the Stuart Island Community Dock.  

Big Bay Pier at Stuart Island Community Dock

A dock attendant came to collect our payment shortly after our arrival.  Other boats had arrived at the dock shortly after passing through the rapids, but our most unique neighbor was a barge off-loading heavy equipment and general supplies.  

Our neighbor, the Marine Link

Tourists aboard the Marine Link

The Marine Link barge also serves as a tour boat (MarineLinkTours.com).  Guests can pay to ride along on the Broughton Island Archipelago route or the Discovery Islands route.  They get to see the sights with opportunities to go ashore and observe the ship at work.  What an interesting way to get out on the water!

Chatterbox Falls the Easy Way

 

Lorena - “I sure would like to see Chatterbox Falls again in Princess Louisa Inlet.”  Leonard - “Are you sure?  It’s 10 nautical miles up Agamemnon Channel, then another 30 nautical miles to Malibu Rapids which becomes a timing issue, and another 4 miles to Chatterbox Falls, plus the time to get back, that’s a 2-3 day commitment.”  After contemplating our options, we decided to do it the easy way and book the one-day tour with Sunshine Coast Tours (800-870-9055), which departs from Backeddy Marina.  

Prince of Wales Reach

We said our Goodbye’s at Pender Harbour and made the 10-mile journey up Agamemnon Channel to Backeddy Marina, located at the north end of Sechelt Peninsula, a convenient place to leave the boat and spend the night after returning from our tour.  

Soda Creek Falls, Prince of Wales Reach

Having secured our boat at Backeddy Marina, we boarded the high-speed tour boat at 10:30am, ready to sit back and enjoy the sights.  Rice, our captain and tour guide, did an excellent job of sharing interesting facts about the fishing industry, logging industry, and Native culture, as well as sea life, geology, and local vegetation.  Stops made along the way included several waterfalls and two historic pictographs (northwesterly shore of Princess Royal Reach).  

Historic Native Pictograph, Princess Royal Reach

Stories from the Native culture tied-in nicely with these sites – five tribes at the beginning of creation were each given a different skill or power so that the tribes would cooperate with one another; the story of three wise women who carried fire inside clam shells; and other Native stories and traditions.  We soon reached Malibu Rapids, also the site of Young Life’s Malibu Club, a Christian summer camp overlooking the rapids.  

Malibu Rapids and Young Life Malibu Club

Malibu Rapids can run at 9 knots, our tour captain took us through on a 2-knot current with ease.  

Approaching Chatterbox Falls

The approach to Chatterbox Falls is gorgeous, showcasing the entire run of the falls surrounded by granite peaks and bowls; just as beautiful as we had remembered.  

Park Dock in front of Chatterbox Falls

Being early in the boating season, only a few boats were tied-up at the Park’s 650-foot guest dock with plenty of room for additional arrivals.  Moorage at the dock is limited to 72 hours so everyone can enjoy this beautiful spot.  Given more than an hour stay by our tour guide, we had ample time to see the falls and relax over lunch at one of the Park’s picnic tables.  Everyone seemed to have a great time and shared their enthusiasm as we made the return trip to Backeddy Marina.  Running at 23 knots, we arrived back at 3:30pm.  “What an easy way to see Princess Louisa Inlet.”  We highly recommend this option for boaters who may want to save some extra days of travel.  

Skookumchuck Trail to Sechelt Rapids

And we still had time left in the day to see other sights near Backeddy Marina, including hiking the Skookumchuck Trail which ends at the Skookuchuck/Sechelt Rapids, a popular destination for hikers who want to see the rapids at full boil.  The marina posts the best viewing times for the rapids, just check the board located in the office.  It’s a mile walk from Backeddy Marina to the trail-head parking lot, and another 2 ¼ mile hike out to Sechelt Rapids.  For a faster, less strenuous trip, you can rent bicycles at the Marina; most of the trail, except for the last quarter mile, is suitable for bicycles.  

Skookumchuck/Sechelt Rapids with a 12-knot Current

Peter, owner of Backeddy Marina, was most gracious and gave us a ride in his truck to the trail head, we were on our own for the walk back.  Boaters can also access the trail from Egmont (Egmont Public Wharf or Bathgate Marina), eliminating a mile of walking.  Skoomkumchuck/Sechelt Rapids are quite a sight to behold when running at full boil (14 knots).  We arrived during a 12-knot flood and saw standing waves!  These were the same rapids we transited at slack when visiting the town of Sechelt a few days earlier, interesting to witness the importance of timing the rapids.  We were glad we made the hike to see these impressive rapids.  

Backeddy Marina & Resort

We were also impressed with the Backeddy Marina.  The pub/restaurant has good food and great views with attractive interior spaces.  

Luxury Camping in a Geodesic dome at Backeddy Marina

If you have guests aboard who would like some time on land, they can enjoy luxury-style camping in one of the five geodesic domes, or rent one of the attractively decorated older cabins.  

Views from the pub at Backeddy Marina

Don’t let the more rustic exterior of the pub and other buildings fool you, it’s a nice stop!  The West Coast Wilderness Lodge is a short walk up the hill from  Backeddy Marina and offers fine dining with similar outstanding views.

Bicycle Rentals at Backeddy Marina and tour departure location for Sunshine Coast Tours

         

 

 

Pender Harbour Delights



John Henry's Marina & Resort, Pender Harbour

Colorful Charm and John Henry's

Retracing our steps, we departed Sechelt Inlet via Sechelt Rapids and then south down Agamemnon Channel and entered Pender Harbour on the west side of Sechelt Peninsula.  A collection of multiple bays and coves make up this large Harbour offering several marinas, public wharfs, and various areas for anchoring.  Mark Bunzel, owner and editor of the Waggoner Cruising Guide, arrived at John Henry’s Marina in Pender Harbour; we were looking forward to joining the group at their evening dinner meeting.  We found John Henry’s Marina & Resort to be a delight; the new owners have refurbished the store and added a restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating.  Warm colors chosen for the buildings, picnic tables, and lawn chairs create a special charm, and the grounds are nicely kept.  

Boats of the Waggoner Flotilla docked at John Henry's

The store is much improved from what we remembered in years past, modern shelving for food stuffs and displays for gift items make John Henry’s a convenient and pleasant stop.  Joining the flotilla group for dinner at John Henry’s restaurant was a real treat.  The flotilla is made up of both sail and power vessels of various makes and sizes.  Everyone seemed enthusiastic about their adventure and appreciated Mark’s help and expertise.  Mark presented a weather briefing and gave the schedule for departure; they would be departing at 18:00 the following morning for Prideaux Haven, a seven-hour journey.  We would continue our travels to other destinations for photos and research.  

Docks below the Grasshopper Pub

While in Pender Harbour, we learned that The Grasshopper Pub is a local’s favorite and so we motored the dinghy over to their docks to check it out.  The Grasshopper Pub is located inside the Pender Harbour Hotel which also owns a small marina for permanent moorage; however, visitors may moor their dinghy or small craft at the docks while dining at the Pub.  

A steep climb by foot or car to the Grasshopper Pub

The only challenge is hiking the very steep road to the top of the hill where the hotel sits perched high above the Harbour.  We were told it was quite steep and it’s definitely true, my face was nearly plastered against the pavement; the road is at least a 40 percent grade. 

Great Views from the Grasshopper Pub

If you aren’t up for this kind of punishment, you can simply call The Grasshopper Pub (604-883-9013) about 10 minutes prior to your arrival, and they will come pick you up by car at their docks.  It’s worth the trip, the views are fabulous and the food is very satisfying. 

Sunshine Coast Resort

After lunch, we motored next door to visit the Sunshine Coast Resort, tucked in a cove at the northeast corner of Pender Harbour.  The marina offers transient moorage and the lodge is accessed by a set of stairs through decks and gardens.  

Sunshine Coast Resort Marina, a lovely spot

Guests may make use of the hot tub and other facilities.  This resort has a very peaceful appeal and is a good choice if you just want to relax.

Rough Cut Diamond




Beautiful 'Sea Walk' at Sechelt

When we arrived at Sechelt by boat, we had the mistaken impression that the town might not have much to offer.  Porpoise Bay at the end of Sechelt Inlet provides plenty of space to anchor and has a good mud bottom for holding, but there are several derelict boats in the bay giving a wrong first impression.  We were looking forward to visiting the main part of town and seeing the west side (Strait of Georgia side) of Sechelt, but weren’t expecting anything special.   Our fold-up bicycles were loaded into the dinghy and we motored to shore.  After tying-up the dinghy at the Lighthouse Pub & Marina, we headed south along Wharf Street for the short half-mile bike ride into town.  

West Side Sechelt, great beaches and expansive views

Once in town we turned west towards the Strait and found the seawall or ‘sea walk’ which was surprisingly beautiful.  A low-profile seawall runs for several miles along the beach with a wide ‘sea walk' above, adorned with lovely plantings and park benches.  The expansive views are stupendous overlooking Trail Islands, Trail Bay, and across the Strait of Georgia.  On the north end of the sea walk, new modern-style condominiums follow the shoreline.  It seems that a building boom is beginning at Sechelt; we saw evidence of new apartments and condos being constructed in other areas of the city as well.  Perhaps homes have become too expensive for retirees in the town of Gibsons to the south, so new retirees are moving further north to Sechelt; not a bad choice for a small town with beautiful views and ample shopping.  

Totems of the Shishalh Nation overlooking the ocean beach

As we rode our bikes south along the seawall, we discovered a collection of totems standing over the beach honoring the First Nations of the Shishalh (Sechelt) of the area.  Other totems can be found in various spots throughout town (a map is available at the tourist office).  Various placards along the sea walk describe the importance of Sechelt in earlier times.  The Union Steamship Co., which provided water transportation along the ‘Sunshine Coast’ to various communities of the early 1920’s, promoted Sechelt as a tourist destination, describing the area as the ‘Gulf Coast Riviera.’  Much earlier in

Placard honoring early Explorers of the Sunshine Coast

the late 1700’s, Spanish explorers, including Jose Narvaez, Dionisio Galiano, and Cayetano Valdes in addition to British explorer George Vancouver explored along the Sunshine Coast of today’s British Columbia.  It was Jose Narvaez, Captain of the Saturnina, who was the first European to land at present day Vancouver B.C. and the first European to explore the Sunshine Coast, landing at present day Davis Bay, a small community on the southwest end of Sechelt.  

Davis Bay 'Sea Walk'

We wanted to see this section of the seawall and the location where Narvaez landed.  Unfortunately, the two sections of the seawall or 'sea walk' are interrupted by a busy road.  Determined, we made the three-mile bike trek to Davis Bay and discovered another beautiful sea walk with fabulous views.  It reminded us of California or Alki Point in Seattle; people were out strolling the sea walk and playing on the beach, while cars cruised the strip lined with shops and cafes.  

Placard honoring Jose Narvaez

At the end of the sea walk, near the tide flats, we found the placard describing the importance of Narvaez’ explorations.  Narvaez made a survey of the area incorporated into a chart showing southern Vancouver Island, Juan de Fuca Strait, and the San Juan Islands.  This was the chart shown to Captain Vancouver by Galiano and Valdes the following summer; Vancouver was shocked to find that others had already explored the area.  

Davis Bay 'Sea Walk' and beaches

We were glad we had made the trek to Davis Bay; although probably easier done by Taxi (604-885-3666).  We enjoyed the beautiful afternoon which was fast drawing to a close.  As we rode our bikes back to the dinghy, I couldn’t help but contemplate the courage of the early explorers.

Reefs and Rapids



Egmont on Skookumchuck Narrows

Got d' Fever at Egmont Public Wharf

Departing Green Bay anchorage, we continued up Agamemnon Channel, reaching the northern tip of Sechelt Peninsula.  Turning south, we entered Skookumchuck Narrows, which becomes Sechelt Inlet once you pass the rapids.  Before heading through Sechelt Rapids, we decided to spend a little time at the village of Egmont so as to arrive at the rapids during slack water.  We found space at the Egmont Public Wharf for our short stay.  Boaters can also find transient moorage at the adjacent ‘Bathgate Store, Resort & Marina.’  Both facilities are tucked inside Secret Bay.  

Unfortunate sailboat on the reef in front of Egmont

Sadly, a sailboat lying on the reef in front of Secret Bay was a somber reminder to use caution and keep track of where you are at all times.  The unfortunate event was cited in the local Harbour Spiel.  Apparently two guys were headed through the Skookumchuck, and when it started to get dark, they turned around and got too close to the reef.  The article was posted at the Bathgate Store where locals and visitors tend to congregate.  The store is well-stocked and has recently been refurbished; gas pumps at the docks have been extensively upgraded. 

Approaching Sechelt Rapids

After a short visit, we departed Egmont Public Wharf and headed for the Sechelt Rapids, also referred to as the Skookumchuck Rapids.  A series of islets nearly extends across the Skookumchuck, creating a choke point, passing through the rapids is the only water access to the town of Sechelt at the end of Sechelt Inlet.  

Sechelt Rapids at Slack

Navigating can be a challenge as the passageway through the rapids twists and turns, you don’t want to be there when the rapids are running 7.4 knots.  We had timed our arrival at slack water and were surprised to see a significant movement even at slack; nothing dangerous, just a note in the logbook that this is one of those rapids where you don’t want to cheat on the timing.  

Lighthouse Pub at Sechelt

We were now in Sechelt Inlet and motored for another two hours before reaching the community of Sechelt.  

Fun Times at the Lighthouse Pub, Sechelt

After setting the hook, it was time to dinghy ashore for drink and dinner at the popular Lighthouse Pub.